parts
OEM parts, and how to find your data plate
One appliance model can span several parts revisions. The serial number is what selects the right one, which is why we ask for it before the van is loaded.
Reviewed 2026-08-13
Every service call we take begins with the same request: the model and the serial number off the data plate. It sounds like paperwork. It is the single biggest factor in whether your repair takes one visit or two.
Why the serial matters more than the model
A model designation can stay on the market for years while the parts inside it change. Suppliers revise a valve body, a fan motor, a board firmware level or a hinge, and from a given production date onward the correct part number is different even though the badge on the door has not changed. The serial number is what encodes when your specific unit was built, and therefore which revision it takes.
Order by model alone and you have a reasonable chance of receiving a part that almost fits — the connector is different, the mounting boss has moved, the resistance value is not the same. That is a second visit and a return shipment, and it is entirely avoidable.
Where the plate is
| Appliance | Usual location |
|---|---|
| Built-in refrigerator or freezer | Upper left interior wall, or behind the base grille |
| Undercounter or wine cabinet | Interior side wall, or on the frame behind the door |
| Range or rangetop | Behind the kick panel, or on the frame behind an oven door |
| Wall oven | Door frame, visible with the door open |
| Dishwasher | Edge of the inner door panel, visible with the door open |
| Ventilation hood | Inside the canopy, above the filters |
| Outdoor grill | Underside of the control panel, or inside the cart |
A phone photograph of the plate is worth more than a transcription. Serials get mis-read — ones and sevens, zeros and the letter O — and a photograph removes the argument entirely. Send it with the booking and we can check parts availability before we come out rather than afterwards.
What OEM buys you
We fit genuine OEM parts, and the honest case for that is not brand loyalty. It is three practical things.
Dimensional and electrical match. A control board with the same footprint and a different firmware level will run a motor at the wrong speed or misread a sensor curve. Aftermarket sensors in particular are frequently close rather than correct, which produces an oven that is accurate at one temperature and wrong at another.
Warranty that means something. We give 90 days on labour and 365 days on parts. That is only underwritable on parts with a real supply chain behind them.
Diagnosis stays honest. When a repair fails after an OEM part, the diagnosis was wrong and we own it. When a repair fails after a generic part, nobody can tell which of the two it was, and the customer pays for the ambiguity.
Lead times, said plainly
Some parts are stocked and some are not. Control boards and door assemblies are the two categories most likely to sit on an extended lead time, and August is the month when the most people need them at once. The estimate carries a realistic date rather than an optimistic one, and if a part is genuinely unavailable we say so instead of leaving your appliance in pieces while we hope.
Where a part is obsolete, we tell you that too, along with what the options actually are. Sometimes the honest answer is that the repair is not worth the cost of the equipment, and we would rather say it than sell around it.
What we never do
We do not fit a used part from another machine and describe it as a repair. We do not substitute a component of a different rating because it is what is on the van. And we do not order anything before you have approved a written estimate that names the part.
Applies to
Book a diagnostic
Flat $80 diagnostic, credited toward the repair when you approve the work. A written estimate comes before any part is ordered or any labour is billed.
90 days on labour, 365 days on parts, genuine OEM parts only. Calls placed after hours are returned the next working morning.